The UK Fashion & Textile Association (UKFT) is calling for reforms to public procurement policy, arguing that changes to procurement rules could strengthen domestic manufacturing, improve supply chain resilience and deliver greater long-term value for the UK economy.

The industry body has submitted evidence to the House of Lords Committee examining the relationship between government and the defence industry, outlining why procurement reform is essential to support UK manufacturing. While the submission focuses on applied manufacturing, technical textiles and defence textiles, UKFT said the issues raised extend across the wider fashion and textile industry and other advanced manufacturing sectors.

According to UKFT, current Treasury spending rules and public procurement practices place too much emphasis on the lowest upfront cost, often overlooking broader economic benefits such as supply chain resilience, innovation, skilled employment, tax revenues and long-term value. The organisation argues that this approach can leave UK manufacturers at a disadvantage when competing for public sector contracts, despite offering internationally competitive products.

The submission notes that many UK companies already supply technical and defence textiles to NATO partners overseas but often struggle to secure equivalent contracts within the UK. UKFT believes public procurement should become a strategic tool that supports national resilience, industrial capability and economic growth, rather than focusing primarily on short-term purchasing costs.

Among its recommendations are reforms to Treasury guidance on value for money, greater recognition of strategically important manufacturing sectors, increased transparency in public procurement processes, stronger collaboration between government and industry, and procurement policies that give greater consideration to domestic manufacturing capability when awarding public contracts.

Although the submission centres on defence textiles, UKFT said the recommendations are intended to support manufacturing more broadly by encouraging investment, strengthening UK supply chains, supporting innovation and creating skilled jobs across multiple industries.

Adam Mansell, Chief Executive Officer of UKFT, said the organisation would continue engaging with government and industry partners to promote procurement policies that better support British manufacturing while delivering long-term value for taxpayers and the wider economy.